Outside the Mexican border town of Tecate, 45 miles inland from San Diego, with the intention of hiking in the mountians and relaxing in what is a normally dry heat. "This is the first time in a long time that I've gone somewhere knowing there will be nothing I have to do," she says. "There won't be even phones in the room." Ducking into her Spanish-Colonial villa with its break archways and beamed ceilings, she settles into a wood-frame sofa and warms herself before the roaring fireplace. Wrapped in a thin chenille rode, Anderson is more striking and blatantly girlish than she appears as the X-Files' skeptical FBI Agent Dana Scully. With her red satin hair pulled back from astonishingly milky skin and secretive blue eyes, it is tempting to discribe her as an ethereal beauty. But that would be too simple. And nothing about Gillian Anderson is simple.

She has spent her first day at Rancho La Puerta unwinding with massage. "Actually, I've got two massages," says Anderson. "One of them was one of the best I've ever had." The ranch prides itself on being the first fitness spa in North America; it was found in 1939, and the Hollywood clientele has included Burt Lancaster and Charlton Heston. Guests can enjoy a holistic approuch to exercise and eating during their stay. Anderson, who doesn't eat wheat, has been looking for millet since she arrived. She explains, "I'm highly sensitive to food. Automaticlly, I can feel the shift in my body." Plus she has just completed a rigorous 10-day "cleanse" (supervised by nutritionist Bo Wagner, who is based in Venice, California) that has left her feeling euphoric. Not as delicate as she appears, Anderson opts for a yoga class and a tai chi lesson. Following a young guide up one of the Kuchumaa foothill hiking trails, she stops on a buff and is instructed in some basic tai chi moves. "You immediately feel like you're one with nature," she says of the eastern disipline. "You become one with the wind and the air you're breathing. It's something I'd be interested in studying--for balance." Inner balance is important to Anderson, who, as the star of a TV phenomeon that has now spawned the movie The X-Files ( opening June 19), has something been in danger of losing hers. In the five years since she landed the role of Scully, at age 24, she has gotten married to art Director Cylde Klozt, in 1994), given birth to a daughter, Piper Maru, and left her husband after 2 years. Unprepared for international fame and taboid hyperscrutiny, she had to learn how to deal with the rush of attention while on the job.


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