She is strolling along a brick path lush rosemary, lavender, Mexican sage and primrose, Morning mist shrouds the rocky peak of nearby Mount Kuchumaa, its sacred slopes desending to a gardenlike valley of stately cypress and flamboyant palms. The stillness and nature hush of the land is broken only by the wind (and, earlier, the cry of a coyote) and the steady downpour of unexpected rain. "This is so surreal," Gillian Anderson says. The 29-year-old star of the X-Files----who knows from the mystical settings but unseasonable precipitation. As a resident of VamCouver, British Columbia, where the series has been shot 5 seasons, she is no stranger to damp climates. But this is her first vaction in months.--- as well as her first-ever visit to a spa. And she has come to Rancho La Puerta, a 3,000-acre Eden------

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